Look
at a map of the Coachella Valley and you’ll find a plethora of wonderful side
trips to educate and warp the mind. The Colorado high desert and Joshua Tree
are just an hour North. Swing the other way around and you can be in the artist
community of Idyllwild in the San Jacinto Mountains. Drop south and things get
really interesting with the Salton Sea, Salvation Mountain and ‘The Slabs.’
If you take a right at the Salton Sea, you’ll end up in East Jesus and West Satan. Unlike the posh country clubs and rarified Aire that is of Palm Springs legend, this is a ‘lost world’ replete with fascinating characters, RV vagabonds and a few stragglers who look like human residue scrapped up from the bottom of civilized society. It’s a step back in time and void of any semblance to a world that vacationers have come to expect of Palm Springs.
East
Jesus is next to West Satan which is just a stone’s throw away from Salvation
Mountain. I passed the Fountain of Youth trailer park on the way into town. I
think you get the drift.
The
Salton Sea was cloaked in a shroud of mist and smell and dead fish on the day I
ventured there. Fortunately, it was cool in the morning so the smell wasn’t
overwhelming even if the rotting carcasses of Tilapia was a bit disconcerting
to walk on. Further down the road past the trailers of Bombay Beach was the sad
remains of Camp Dunlap, a World War Two Marine base lost in the desert. Appropriately
named Slab City, the Quonset huts are gone now and only the concrete slabs
remain.
Just
down the road from Salvation Mountain, two former guard huts announce the
entrance to Slab City. It’s estimated that there are about one hundred and
fifty permanent residents (squatters) who live in the Slabs all-year round.
Some live on government checks, others just want to live ‘off the grid’ and a
few come to stretch out their retirement income. The camp has no electricity,
no running water, no sewers or toilets and no trash pickup service. Sounds like
a dry run for the apocalypse.
Despite
the free shoe tree on the way into town and the free library, most of the
residents have sectioned off their trailers, tents and sleeping bags with
tires, pallets, or barbwire. Free is free unless it comes to their piece of
heaven in the desert then even the squatters want their personal space
recognized.
The library is an eclectic collection of cast-off books and magazines all free for the taking. The floor was dirt and the ceiling clear blue sky or sheets stretched between sections. The reading lounge was mainly occupied by lizards, tarantulas, and small droppings of a questionable nature. When I was there, the proprietor encouraged me to visit the art gallery at East Jesus which is next to West Satan. A request like that couldn’t be ignored.
East
Jesus has been described as an experimental, sustainable, habitable, art
installation. I was told that East Jesus is a colloquialism for the middle of
nowhere beyond the edge of services. Made from discarded material that has been
reused, recycled, or repurposed, East Jesus encourages visitors to imagine a world
without waste in which every action is an opportunity for self-expression.
I
think West Satan is a simply a suburb of East Jesus. The art gallery there was
fascinating and mind-expanding. My wife, ever the one to encompass clear
insight into as few words as possible, simply called it ‘bad art.’
Either
way it was a fun trip that gave birth to other mind images that are still whirling
around in my head. Someday they just might start leaking out my fingertips into
future storylines. My visit challenged the notion of ‘what art is’ and dragged
us out of our comfort zone for at least one afternoon.
It
was at once fascinating, intriguing, sad, mind-expanding, and challenging. It
was finding iconic and cultural-pop treasures in the middle of nowhere
California…just a stones-throw from Palm Springs and the flip side of reality there.
It
was tripping out without the acid and a glimpse into the lives of those who
don’t want to be a part of ‘any scene’ here in fantasy land or the rest of the
world.
I
get it. They got it…and want to keep it that way.



















