Easter Sunday when good Catholic boys and girls dress up in their finest outfits to impress each other and grandma. Oh, the memories that old French church in downtown Saint Paul bring back. If you live long enough, you can see it still there but everything else…gone.
So many of the landmarks, monuments and buildings that played wallpaper
to my youth are gone now. Their history now exists only in old black and white
photos. Decades of growth, change and development have effectively erased many
of the landmarks that surrounded my life back then.
I was born and raised in Saint
Paul. Even though I now find myself in a third-tier suburb out of the city, most
of those memories are still back there. I can go back and find connections all
over the city, watching the curious and sometimes neglectful changes the city
has gone through in mostly subtle but profound ways.
I think where you grew up, to a
certain extent, can define who you are and what you’ve become. It can be a
reflection of your values, interests and affiliations. Old Saint Paul isn’t a
bad place to be from. So, while you can’t ‘go back home again’ figuratively
speaking you can revisit those places that impacted your life in so many
profound ways.
The first home I vaguely remember was on Smith Avenue. It was a tired old duplex that never survived the creation of the United Hospital complex across the street. Then there was a six-plex apartment building near Irving Park. That structure also succumbed to the realignment of the neighborhood. Little Sisters of the Poor is still there but in a new building and mission.
When I was in first grade, we moved to a new house my mother built by herself in the Highland Park neighborhood. Her total cost of materials, not counting free labor from her brother and the cost of the foundation, was eight thousand dollars. Awhile back it went on the market for more than a quarter of a million dollars. My, how times have changed.
The list of my own landmarks now gone is numerous. My grade school was torn down a couple of years after I left. My high school, once an all-boys military school, has gone co-ed. My college was an all-man’s private college. It’s now a D 1 co-ed university. The original Twin Cities Public Television building where I began my career in television and video production is now the Minnesota State Fair headquarters. A jog over to East Saint Paul brought even more surprises.
I can still remember my Aunt Clara’s house in East Saint Paul and her favorite watering hole, the Viaduct Bar. How, at seven or eight, I somehow picked up that she and her husband frequented that place, is beyond me. But they did and I must have overheard it from my mother.
We didn’t go to see my aunt often but it must have been enough to imprint in my pea-brain. A recent venture back along old East Seventh Street brought confusion and amazement. That whole neighborhood is gone now. No more viaduct bar. No more viaduct bridge and no bridge abutments. Years ago, the resulting road alignment either erased Aunt Clara’s house or put it where I never could find it. Nothing there has remained the same.
Even the venerable village of Dinky town, famed for Bob Dylan’s coffee house start, fraternity panty raids and my own late-night romantic liaisons has morphed into something totally different.
What had once been a rundown artistic bohemian neighborhood has slowly evolved into a sad morass of fast-food chains, a university t-shirt shop, a drug store turned frou-frou restaurant and a poor excuse for a coffee shop (circ. 2013).
Even more development is now threatening to wipe out the last remaining vestiges of edgy urban living. All in the name of progress.
Not far from the debris that Dinkytown has become is an empty lot where a rundown hovel I affectionately called my ‘broken down palace’ once stood. It was my first apartment building after returning from my sojourn abroad.
That whole period in my life was really a preamble for things to come from career choices, traveling, friendships, writing and finally love and family. The building itself, like my apartment inside, would never meet code today. But it did provide me a place to sleep, a place to write and a place to experience life on so many different levels. It’s where my first venture into poetry and song writing began.
My unit on the second floor of that rundown relic had been carved out of a once spacious master bedroom. One hundred years earlier the building had been someone’s elegant home on University Avenue. By the time I moved in, it was a chopped-up, divided, subdivided and probably illegal set of apartments for whoever could afford the cheap rent.
There was a group of Pakistan students’ downstairs. They were all
graduate students who were probably as suspicious of me as I was of them. I
don’t know who lived on the other side of my living room wall but the nighttime
noises indicated it was either Charley Harper or one of his protégés. The front
of the building housed a strange assortment of folks who came and went with
such regularly they might have been renting by the evening or weekend.
The overall mantra of the place seemed to be “Say Hi,” don’t ask
questions, and ignore what’s going on unless you think the place might burn
down. In retrospect, I think I was nuts to live in such a dump but it suited my
lifestyle back then and my frame of mind. I thought of my place as bohemian
chic. Visitors might have had a different impression. Shortly after I moved
out, they tore the building down and replaced it with a new General Mills
Research Lab.
My girlfriend at the time was a Mexican American girl named Susan. She was vivacious, outgoing, ambitious and shared a lot of my own dreams and aspirations. One of those ‘ships in the night’ I was lucky to pass along the way to adulthood.
Having found the spot where Susan and I once sat on my creaky back steps and waxed philosophically about life and love and the future, I thought I might venture back and try to find the house of where she used to live. My meandering route through that neighborhood was just part of a much larger circuitous bike ride that particular morning. There were still a lot of good memories lingering back there in the hood even after all these years.
I was about to give up my search when I rode past an old red brick row house and immediately recognized it as the spot where I used to turn left to go to Susan’s house. Even after fifty plus years, the memory of that trail marker still stood out like a homing beacon. Now I knew exactly where Susan’s house was. Only it wasn’t there.
A large apartment building had taken up a good part of her old city block. Not surprisingly, at some point back in time, a developer had come along and put up an apartment building where Susan’s house used to stand.
While I didn’t find Susan’s house, I did find something more profound.
Just as Susan’s house had disappeared under the guise of progress and
development, so too had most of the other vestiges of my existence back in that
neighborhood. Everywhere I rode, the old buildings were gone or had been
refurbished into something else.
During its heyday, the Triangle Bar was the flash point for the burgeoning music scene centered on the West Bank. Since they didn’t card, the bar attracted a lot of U of M students. I’m guessing the term ‘jail bait’ was first coined there. Not me, I either went there alone or with Susan.
But beyond the surface of that melting pot of hippies, junkies, college
drop-outs, undercover cops and other assorted flotsam from civilization, came a
wonderful collection of lost souls and seekers. Every night brought another
stimulating conversation with some colorful character who usually gave a false
last name, lied about their background but presented fascinating suppositions
on life and love and war and college and our future in general. It was a true
college education outside of the classroom.
The bar died in the 70’s along with the whole hippie scene. The Triangle Bar building became a phycologist's office. That period in my life which I’ve euphemistically labeled my ‘lost years’ encompassed a lot of lost real estate, friends who have come and gone, several women I truly cared about, and ultimately a lifestyle that has sustained and nurtured me for many years. The loss of those buildings was probably the most visible manifestation of my own change and evolution.
Deep down, I never really expected to find anyone or anything there from my past. The only place still standing is the duplex where Sharon and I first lived when we got married. Still, I’ve got a couple of pictures, fragmented memories and just enough foolishness left in me to think of it as a great period in my life. A time when I was young and dumb and poor. What better ingredients to fertilize the mind of an aging writer. Now that I’m old enough, oh, the stories I could tell.






















